Beef short-rib in lotus leaf. [Photo by Pauline D. Loh / China Daily]

It was a piece of beef short-rib wrapped in dried lotus leaf, and it was true. Winter may be approaching outside the door, but the slightly musky smell of the lotus leaf spoke of summer while the thin slices of mushrooms that came with it reminded us that autumn was just past.

The meat was fork-tender, and although it signaled the last of the main courses, it was just enough to complete a nicely balanced meal.

We also had a little bowl of bamboo shoots and what the Shanghainese call "chicken feather greens", tender shoots of Chinese greens. I particularly liked the way the chef had topped the dish with salty bits of fried garlic.

No meal at a Shandong restaurant would be complete without a bowl of noodles in braised sauce. But unfortunately, it had to be largely left alone and the bravest diners at the table could only complete half the bowl.

Simple House is a pleasant surprise and one of the secret pleasures that I am determined to explore better.

Kunlun Hotel also shows off cuisines from other regions in China, and boasts a Japanese and a Korean restaurant as well. It also to intends to open an exclusive private dining room with its own Western and Chinese kitchens, so keep reading us for details.

IF YOU GO

Simple House

Kunlun Hotel

2, Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang district.

010-6590-3388

Average cost per head: 600 to 700 yuan ($98-115)

Recommended: Beef Short ribs in Lotus Leaf, Dry-braised Prawns with Bamboo Basket, Fillet of Sole with Cordyceps Mushrooms.