The appetizer platter is a showcase of flavors. [Photo by Pauline D. Loh / China Daily]

An all-Chinese hotel in Beijing's diplomatic district is showing the way on how to exercise international appeal with a stellar selection of Chinese restaurants. Pauline D. Loh samples degustation from one.

Come eat with us at Simple House, the invitation said, but as soon as I stepped into the restaurant, I knew it was not going to be so simple. This is one of many dining outlets at the Kunlun Hotel, arguably China's best State-owned hotel.

This towering edifice of hospitality is nicely planted in the plump diplomatic district of Liangmaqiao and proudly faces competitors, such as the Westin Chaoyang right next door and the Four Seasons across the Third Ring Road.

Kunlun Hotel used to be owned by the Public Security Bureau but was taken over by Shanghai's Jin-jiang International Hotels. The secret to its success, and what makes it stand out among the huge numbers of State-owned hotels, is largely its forward-looking management team. But that's another story.

Simple House Restaurant is one of 12 food and beverage outlets in the 800-room hotel.

It serves largely Shandong-style cuisine, although the chef has certainly lightened the menu at lunch to cater to the preferences of mid-day diners.

The restaurant itself is very atmospheric. It is like walking into a cool, green, hidden garden, with lots of bamboo and vines draping the walls. There is the sound of running water and birdsong.

In a little private dining alcove, I found the source of the music, a mynah in a cage hidden among the greenery. I thought that was brilliant, and it was a hospitable bird which kept up a cheerful exchange of chirps and tweets while I waited for my hosts.

The menu was placed in a brocade folder on the table, with the date and dishes of the day nicely printed in elegant script.