Teochew Style Steamed Pomfret. [Photo provided to China Daily]

Another art is the perfectly steamed fish. Like his Cantonese peers, the Chaoshan chefs' litmus test is producing a steamed fish that is unsullied by heavy sauces. Unlike Cantonese chefs, however, they do not douse their steamed fish with oil and sauces after it is removed from the pan.

Instead, flavoring is added during the steaming. The most commonly used flavors are shredded, salted mustard stems, salt-water-pickled plums and tomato slices to add a balance of sweetness and tartness.

Chaoshan lies close to the coast, and plentiful seafood is easily accessible. Mullet, pomfret and sea bass are favored fish varieties. They also like to steam large crabs, prawns and squid and leave the dishes to chill before serving.

Whatever the choice of ingredient, the cook's mission is always to preserve and present nature's original flavors.

Seafood is often eaten with a dip of salted yellow soybean with shredded ginger and sliced chili.