Hi-Spicy Fish. Feng Yongbin / China Daily

Eating spicy food is addictive. Some diners like to challenge their tolerance of spiciness though the acts can make their noses run and eyes water. It may be a kind of masochistic delight.

"I've long enjoyed spicy food. The chili's burning sensation feels so good. It is not only a gastronomic feast, but somehow clears my mind and reduces my work pressure. As I sweat, I feel refreshed," says a diner surnamed Tian.

People's tolerance for spicy food can be built, says Tian's dining companion, a woman who looks to be in her 20s. "I did not eat spicy food when I was little. But my mother later made me try eating something spicy and hot because she said I was too mild, and eating such food can cultivate my character."

Diners can choose from three levels of spiciness: Mild, medium and supreme. Though we both are very confident about eating chilies, we are not feeling adventurous on this night, so we experiment with the mild level.

It turns out to be a rational choice. The mild level is much spicier than I have expected; the first bite sets my mouth on fire. My dining companion is braver than me, having tried many types of offal, and is more comfortable with the burning flavor.