Reggae Bar on Chaweng Beach has a throbbing nightlife. Matt Hodges / China Daily

"The overall situation in Thailand at present has become more peaceful since the demonstrators returned many areas back to normal," the Tourism Authority of Thailand wrote in an e-mail on March 10.

Buy, buy in Bangkok

Honeymoon in heaven

Those unfazed by the hot-and-cold state of affairs in the capital can still enjoy this chaotic and romantic city from one of its world-class hotels, especially those perched beside the river. Of these, the Shangri-La offers the most tropical oasis-like ambience. Spending a few days within its bubble world had long been on my to-do list. It was worth the wait.

Highlights included sipping cocktails at the outdoor bar as party boats cruised by blasting songs from the 1980s; dining at its opulent Cantonese restaurant, Shang Palace; and hitting the river-facing gym, which offers Thai kickboxing, yoga and Pilates classes. This was the first time I'd bench-pressed while watching squirrels hop along tree branches just a few meters from my nose. We skipped the hotel's famous Chi spa due to a lack of time.

Dinner at the recently refurbished Shang Palace was a culinary treat - kudos to executive chef Sham Yun-ming from Hong Kong for his wok-fried lobster with ginger and onion sauce, dim sum selection, and mango pudding - but Valentine's Day dinner at Salathip (THB1,800 or $45 per person) was as romantic an experience as you could ask for. The teak pavilion looks like a small wooden palace set in a tropical garden.

As a testament to the Shangri-La's world-famous hospitality, they threw in a complimentary red rose, glass of champagne and traditional Thai warrior dance performed at our table. The fireworks after sunset were an unexpected bonus as strangers across the "river of kings" celebrated the end of the Chinese New Year.