Dapanji, steamed buns and fried rice are among the classic Uygur dishes.[Photo by Mike Peters/ China Daily]

Not to be missed is the dapanji, a classic Uygur noodle dish studded with chicken (and potatoes), savory and a bit spicy. The noodles are chopped so they are easier to manage than some mega noodle versions of this dish elsewhere.

While noodles are classic in the region, so is rice pilaf, prepared with chunks of flavorful lamb and enough Xinjiang carrots to give the dish a slightly sweet edge. The fried rice option, on the other hand, swings to the spicy side.

As a Muslim eatery, the meats and vegetables are prepared in halal custom, which also means there is no pork to be found. The beef and lamb are so good you won't miss it.

Unlike some Muslim cultures were alcohol is forbidden, the Uygur have a tradition of beer (brewed with barley - the black Sinkiang stout is particularly good). There is Xinjiang wine on offer as well, made with Xinjiang's famously sweet grapes, and wine made from pomegranate that may be a bit rich for Western palates. The bottled regional pomegranate juice, on the other hand, suited our palates perfectly.

If you have room for dessert - we didn't, to our chagrin - you can choose from an array of sweets like you'd find on the street in a Muslim quarter. Our eye was caught by baklava-like wedges - packed so full of walnuts and raisins that the pastry seemed like an afterthought, just enough there to bind the goodies together. That will have to wait for another visit.

Contact the writer at michaelpeters@chinadaily.com.cn