Y/Project with an all-enveloping coat closed with a bow which even had its own train. [Photo/AFP]

Nothing emphasizes the new tailored trend more than the abundance of sharply-cut shiny leather on the podiums.

Very few of the main shows were without the sheen of leather or slinkily cut silks or synthetics.

Anthony Vaccarello wrapped his 1980s Saint Laurent vamps in tight rippling leather outfits and Chloe dusted off a brown patent 1970s mini dress that Mary Tyler Moore might have worn in one of her racier moments.

Lanvin, now under the classy Bouchra Jarrar, went for a full patent black suit while Olivier Theyskens chilled and thrilled with a full-length black Gestapo-style leather coat. As for Y/Project, it stopped the traffic with a red leather coat and baggy trousers.