The menu is indeed not extensive. Yotsuba is true to its promise to serve only what it specializes in, sushi, so do not go there expecting to find udon, tempura and California roll. We ordered two lunchtime sets, starting from 150 yuan a set, and at that price the quality is top-notch.

To ensure authenticity, food such as tuna, rice and urchin are flown in from Japan every day, and decorations, cooking utensils and cutlery also came from there, we were told.

What I liked most was the Japanese steamed egg custard with gingko nuts, fresh shrimps and scallop slices, commonly known as chawanmushi in Japanese. The custard was soupier than what I had tasted before, because it was topped with a briny broth. It was smooth and tasted terrific. The texture of the eggs was superbly tender, and the dish had a subtle, sweet aroma.

This is a light and flavorful appetizer, or you could have it as a warm dessert.

It is often said that the proof of a Japanese restaurant is in its steamed egg custard. This dish is akin to a Western omelet, easy to cook and as basic in its ingredients as you care to make it, but tasting widely differently depending on who cooks it.

Sashimi and sushi at Yotsuba are beautifully presented, shiny and sharp-edged, and tasted flawless.

The miso soup was good, but not outstanding, a little salty to my palate. A chef at the sushi counter reckoned that miso soup in Japan tends to be even saltier than what Yotsuba provides.

Yotsuba's roasted Japanese Wagyu steak is new on the menu. Cooked medium rare to rare, the meat took on an outstanding texture and taste. To the nose it was aromatic and to the taste buds succulent. It melted in my mouth with its buttery and smoky flavor, the result of its being grilled over charcoal.

The scrumptious roasted Wagyu set was paired with a fresh bowl of rice, soup, small plates of salad and grilled and steamed items, such as sake-steamed clams. It costs 250 yuan.

Our dining experience at the sushi bar was quiet and pleasant; diners sitting at the counter all seemed to be intent on enjoying the food, with little of the usual preoccupation with mobile phones. Occasionally, the chefs could be heard speaking Japanese as they prepared the food.

If you go

Yotsuba (Yansha location)

39 Maizidian Xijie, Chaoyang district

11:30am-2pm; 5:30-10pm

010-6467-1837