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反腐捧紅二手奢侈品市場
China's corruption crackdown is helping fuel a second-hand luxury market

[ 2013-11-07 12:07]

來源：中國日報網

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As fur coats and Swiss watches fall out of vogue among China’s elites facing a corruption crackdown, another luxury sector is quietly thriving. The second-hand luxury market has seen a jump this year, according to a survey of stores by Fortune Character Institute, FCI, a Chinese luxury lifestyle publication.

China’s second-hand luxury stores range from independent boutiques selling, renting, or repairing designer wares to chains like Hong Kong’s Milan Station or Japan’s Brand Off, both of which have stores on the mainland. (They’re not to be confused with the stalls full of fake Vuitton in Beijing’s famous Silk Street Market.) Online operations have sprung up too, such as Secoo.com, which has around 600,000 registered users .

Second-hand designer goods can cost as little as a third of their original price.On Secco, a Louis Vuitton bag sells for 2,750 yuan or $450 (link in Chinese), compared to a retail price of 8,350 renminbi. Rare or limited-edition items can even fetch more second-hand than the original price.

According to the FCI survey of about 200 second-hand luxury shops in Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou, sales totaled about 3 billion yuan ($490 million) in the first half of 2013. That’s pretty small compared to China’s overall luxury market, worth about $18 billion in 2012 (paywall) according to Bain & Company. But it’s a 30% jump from the year before. FCI posits that the second-hand luxury market could grow 20% this year, which is about how much sales in China’s traditional luxury sector grew in 2012. (Analysts are expecting the traditional luxe sector to grow a measly 5% to 7% (paywall) this year.)

The number of second-hand stores has grown too, to a little over 800, from just over 500 last year. Stores have been setting up in smaller cities like Changsha, Hangzhou and Chengdu as well as in larger, wealthier urban centers, the publication said.

While China’s austerity campaign and the increasing scrutiny of officials’ behavior by Chinese bloggers are likely helping, second-hand stores have been around for a while, as a way for wealthy Chinese to sell off unwanted goods. Pawn shops began appearing in the country in the 1990s and copycat stores of Milan Station, the second-hand luxury chain from Hong Kong, were all over the country by 2011. Today, second-hand stores always see extra business after the holidays when the most “gifting” occurs. Another explanation is that as more Chinese travel abroad—especially in Asia where second-hand luxury stores have been popular for years in Japan and South Korea—they’ve become more accepting of the idea of wearing someone else’s expensive hand-me-downs.

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反腐讓皮草和瑞士表等奢侈品在中國的精英中逐漸失寵，但與此同時，奢侈品行業的另一個市場正在悄然興起。根據中國富豪生活方式研究機構財富品質研究院的一項調查，今年的二手奢侈品市場人氣大漲。

中國的二手奢侈品店既有獨立的精品銷售店、租賃店、修理店，又有大牌連鎖店，如香港的米蘭站和日本的二手名牌店Brand Off等（北京的秀水賣的是名牌仿貨，而這些店是真材實料的名品）。此外網上店鋪也非常火，secoo.com的注冊用戶已達60萬人。

某些二手品牌貨的價格可低至原價的三分之一。在secoo上，原價8350元的LV的包，售價僅為2750元，合450美元（還有中文鏈接）。珍藏版或限量版的二手奢侈品價格則可能會高于原價。

財富品質研究院對北京、上海和廣州的約200家二手奢飾品店進行了調查，結果顯示，2013年上半年的總銷售額高達30億元（或4.9億美元）。相對于整個中國的奢侈品市場，這僅是一小部分。根據美國貝恩咨詢公司的調查，2012年中國的奢侈品市場價值180億美元，較前一年增加了30%。財富品質研究院預計，今年二手奢侈品市場的增長率將為20%，與中國傳統奢侈品行業在2012年的銷售增長保持一致（分析家們認為，今年中國的傳統奢侈品行業的增長將僅為5%-7%左右）。

二手店的數量也從去年的500多家猛增到800多家。根據報道，在長沙、杭州、成都等中型城市，和一些較大的富裕的城市中心，也紛紛出現了二手奢侈品店。

隨著中國政府倡行節約，中國網民對貪腐行為的不斷曝光，作為國內富人處置奢侈品的渠道，二手商店的生意一時間風生水起。從上世紀90年代起，國內開始出現典當行；到2011年，各種效仿香港的米蘭站的二手奢侈品商店在大陸遍地開花。如今，每次送禮頻發的假日結束后，二手商店都會迎來紅火的生意。另外一種解說是，隨著越來越多的國人出境旅游，尤其是去日本和韓國這些二手奢侈品店已盛行多年的亞洲國家，越來越多的人們接受了使用二手的貴重物品的觀念。

（譯者 shanxitgrenting 編輯丹妮）

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