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A new breed of man, the 'metrosexual'
He's religious about moisturizer. He knows what colors he looks good in. He knows his Zegna from his Armani. He's not gay... He's metrosexual.
A subtle hint of cologne glorifies his body. He drapes himself in a sharp outfit before hitting an evening hotspot. He has a discretionary income to keep up with the latest hairstyles and the right shoes. He's a fan of GQ magazine and not ashamed of it. He may not be your father's idea of a macho man, but nevertheless, he loves women.
Tough guys in advertising campaigns have been replaced by something softer at the edges. Suddenly, the media, or the soap operas, are saturated with messages about men discovering their inner "feminine" sense of beauty. David Beckham, the man whom British academics have credited with changing male behavior, has been deemed the ultimate metrosexual. "It reflects a laudable trend, which is men who care about good grooming and style," analyzes Wang Jingzhong, manager of the Shanghai office for magazines like Esquire, Bazaar and Cosmopolitan, a Mr Fashionable seen at launch parties around the town. "Open your eyes: There are men who apply moisturizer all around you. No one is asking you to preen yourself into a walking peacock or tweeze your eyebrows into an enviable arch, we're just asking you to give more attention to personal grooming." "I go for it," says local fashion critic June Yamada, who just wrote her English-Chinese bilingual manners and fashion book "Tell It like It Is." "If a man cares about their looks, it means that they care about women and they're sophisticated. Women do appreciate men who take care of themselves." But there is a line to draw between the normal, average metrosexual and the overly obsessed beauty junkie, she adds. If a man looks in the mirror all day long, he's narcissistic. That's just obnoxious.
"I do not want a guy who's too slick and vain," echoes Hong Kong movie star Maggie Cheung on her recent promotional tour for boutique I.T. "Stylish dress is acceptable, but be wary of men who wear clear polish." Women buy clothes on a whim, men buy out of need. Still, more men are aware of the effect of the slogan "dress for success" in this East-meets-West metropolis. They're spending more on their attire, and are increasingly interested in a more polished style. Perhaps achieving metrosexuality is too much for an average joe, but the fact is, some guys really need a visual revamping. With brutal honesty, Yamada wants to point out some common fashion faux pas. "In general, men always wear black here, which makes parties look like funerals," she fires away. "Black pants are outdated. Charcoal gray, navy blue and dark brown are the three basic colors for men's pants. If you wear a white shirt, match your tie to the suit. If you wear a shirt with strong colors, then match your tie to the shirt. For example, if you have a dark charcoal suit, and baby pink shirt, a burgundy red tie is a good match.
Above all, Yamada points out that hygiene is essential. All the gorgeous clothes in the world will not be worth a damn if you reek. Teeth should be kept clean and white. Get the gunk out from under your nails and get rid of dandruff. Don't overdo the cologne. It's the little things that make a big difference. "No long finger nails. They scare me. I always wonder if they use it for picking their nose?!" she asks in horror. Deng Kan, a 28-year-old man who describes himself as a chicken when it comes to dressing, complains: "My girlfriend says I dress very conservatively and thinks I need to be a little more, in her words, edgy. I'm comfortable being the way I am, proper and safe. I stick to a few colors, black and gray, essentially, and cannot fathom how to match pinstripes and patterns on suits, shirts and ties. Any suggestions on livening up the colors and jazzing up the business wear?" The answer is quiet elusive, but Wang has some basic rules. "The key to mixing patterns is to stay in the same color family," he says. "One pattern should be the dominant pattern and the other should complement it. Don't have a war of stripes, checks and plaids going on over your body. You could also start with shirts that are not the usual white, powder blue or pale yellow, to go with a deeper-hued tie.
Wang doesn't think so. "They're tailored to Western men's body shape. For me, I'm a little pudgy, and Zegna will make me look like a midget. Their pants amplify my short legs," he says. Pirounis Stavros, who worked at the production department of Zegna for more than 15 years, says brand names are good for nothing if they don't fit you. The top rules for guys' fashion is to choose quality over quantity, be comfortable and love the tailor, he adds. Wang also offers some realistic advice for shopping.
Avoid purchasing anything you don't genuinely like just because the price is right. Chances are it will rot in your closet. If you're lucky enough to have a wife or girlfriend to keep your closet updated, count yourself blessed. Most women are naturals at the art of shopping. Then how does one judge an appropriate price of clothing? "I know, in general, that retailers mark up clothes by 100 percent," says Wang. "So if it costs a retailer 100 yuan (US$12) to buy a shirt wholesale, they sell it to you for 200 yuan give or take. So when something is marked 25-percent or 50-percent off, the retailer still profits. My rule of thumb is to never cut corners on shoes or a suit. You're not just paying for the material, you're paying for the styling and the fit. But I always buy shirts and ties at a discount." |
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Zhao Feifei reports on how to acquire the
good-grooming, good-looking qualities of the 21st-century man. He goes to
hairdressers rather than barbers and avoids using soap because it's too harsh
for the skin.
"To make yourself look different you need a pinch of audacity. However,
don't stifle your style to become a one-look wonder. Your attire can help you
appear like a different kind of man to suit the occasion and your mood."
High-end names like Armani and Zegna are synonymous with beautiful, lasting
styles. Do they really have the magic of turning you into a male version of
Cinderella? 
"Before you go out and buy new clothes, you'll need to take inventory
of your current holdings. Dump anything that doesn't fit comfortably. After you
finish discarding, take note of what you have left. This will help you determine
what you need to purchase."
