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Male cosmetics consumers smell trend's scent
Denis Liu, a Chinese representative of a British company, has a self-imposed dress code. But he doesn't have to wear a tie or hat; rather, he has to wear cologne. Liu has become a loyal wearer of Giorgio Armani cologne since he began working in Britain two years ago. "It is embarrassing if I don't wear it when all my colleagues do," he said. Cologne helps Liu feel fresh and confident. Liu also uses Gillette shave cream and Burberry face wash, which he received as gifts from his girlfriend. Liu is among the growing number of Chinese men now using cosmetics. "Male cosmetics products are becoming a new growth point, as the female market is becoming saturated," said Luo Xielong, president of the China Beauty and Cosmetic Chamber (CBCC). Insiders say the global male cosmetics market is growing 30 per cent annually. Although statistics from the Chinese market are not available, Luo suggests the market is growing as quickly as the sector in other nations. CBCC statistics indicate 8 per cent of China's beauty salon customers last year were men. That was up from 3 per cent two years ago. That, Luo said, reflects a trend in the cosmetics market. There are three target male consumers in China: Foreigners, Chinese who once lived overseas, and high-income, white-collar workers who have been influenced by Western culture. There will be greater demand for such products as more people take personal grooming seriously, Luo said. But, he added, cosmetics makers, both domestic and foreign, have not begun targeting male customers. Domestic brands, such as Dabao and Caisy, have realized the market's importance, but they are proceeding cautiously, Luo added. Half of Beijing-based Dabao's customers are men, even though the company has not established a male series of products. "Definitely, the foreign brands are leading the ... male cosmetics products in China," Luo said. Foreign giants have abundant experience in developing the male market, and they have sufficient capital for research and development, Luo said. "Foreign cosmetics makers can afford the huge outlay for advertisements and promotions," Luo said. The cosmetics sector is an advertisement-led market, as consumers pay more attention to brand reputation than the products' benefits, Luo said. Most of the target consumers are high-income earners, who, because they have champagne tastes, will only use famous brands, analysts said. "Domestic manufacturers cannot keep up with demand," Luo said. Zhou Genliang, communications manager of L'Oreal China, sees the potential of the male cosmetics market, although male cosmetics currently account for a very small portion of L'Oreal's sales in China. L'Oreal, the world's largest cosmetics company, has some of the most popular male cosmetics brands in Europe and the United States - including Biotherm Homme, a high-end brand with more than 50 per cent market share in Europe. The company began introducing its Biotherm Homme skin care products in China in 2002. The firm has targetted young and fashionable male customers. Zhou declined to provide specific sales figures, but suggested the purchasing capability in China is not yet strong. Yue-Sai, which recently merged with L'Oreal, promoted Adidas' cologne, aftershave lotion and shampoo in 1999. However, the business did not experience much progress. Yue-Sai reportedly will suspend its co-operation with Adidas. Zhou Xiaoyan, Yue-Sai's public relations manager, declined comment on the report. |
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