Tips for foodies

Breakfast is often served until 10 or 11 am.

Laobacha (old dad's tea) is an afternoon affair — 2-5 pm is peak time — served with a variety of desserts.

Many local restaurants serve dinner until late. Night markets often come alive after 6 pm. Walk the entire length of the market before buying anything so you can see the options and compare prices. You can buy single servings of cut fresh fruit, like mango, pineapple, watermelon, and durian, which are perfect for trying. To buy large quantities, go to a daytime fruit market.

Menus at small local stalls and markets are often written only in Chinese. At the stalls, point to what you're interested in or show the vendor what others are having. At teahouses, you normally receive a ticket and choose dishes from a counter. Watch what the regulars are grabbing. Remember to order a pot of black tea sweetened with sugar.

Hainan cuisine is not usually spicy. Chili sauces, such as the famous yellow lantern chili, and vinegar are always available on the side, so you can add as little or as much as you want.

Some stalls accept cash, but mobile payments via WeChat Pay and Alipay are preferred. International credit cards are almost never accepted by smaller vendors or teahouses.