Diversity of flavors

While cities like Tokyo and Melbourne have longer histories of engaging with specialty coffee culture, Hong Kong scores in terms of the sheer variety on offer. Some cafes, like Fikafabriken in Sai Ying Pun, reflect Nordic ethos - serving lightly roasted brews with minimalist interior decoration. Others, like Fineprint on Peel Street, Tai Hang and Sai Ying Pun, take inspiration from Sydney, favoring bold espresso flavors, brunch menus and a hipster image. Still others, like Phoenix Coffee Roastery, are staunch believers in regional pride, sourcing coffee beans from Yunnan province, or from Vietnam.

For every thriving specialty coffee outlet in the city, there's another one struggling to survive. Guan points out that roasteries operate under restrictions in certain Hong Kong neighborhoods. Prohibitive rents have forced many specialty coffee makers to either share space with a bar or sell their products online.

Small independent establishments were badly hit during the COVID-19 pandemic, and many of them are yet to see sales matching pre-pandemic levels. "You have to be incredibly resilient to run a cafe in Hong Kong," Guan says. "There's so much volatility."

And yet, he says, cafes are often sustained by human connections. "When we host cupping sessions or tasting events, people show up not just to sip coffee, but to learn and connect with others. That's what makes this city special."