Meticulous efforts

The Pu'er tea-making process consists of more than 70 steps, including withering, roasting, bruising, drying in the sun and pressing the leaves. The most critical and difficult step is roasting the leaves in a big wok, which has a great influence on the flavor of the tea, and gets rid of undesirable odors. Li says he practiced stirring tea leaves in a wok every day for years.

"How high I toss them, how I adjust the interval between each toss, which lasts a few seconds, and what kind of wood to burn to match the level of heat the tea requires, are all elements that can affect its final flavor and quality," says Li.

His daughter Li Mingjie says that her father is a meticulous tea maker and that his hands are sensitive enough to feel the exact temperature required when stirring the leaves. "His hands are better than machines," she says.

In addition to practice and experience, talent is also required, says Li Xingchang. Since 2012, he has worked with vocational schools to set up training centers. More than 10,000 participants have taken his Pu'er tea courses, but no more than 10 have made him smile, he says.

"Apart from persistence, talent is very important. It's just like cooking food. With the same ingredients, seasoning and cooking utensils, the taste differs depending on the chef. It's the same with tea making. The tea maker and his talent determine the quality of the tea," he says.