More than cloth

To elderly Chongming natives, weaving the fabric was not simply a means of livelihood. To the women, this craft was once a test of one's eligibility for marriage.

According to a tradition on the island, the fabric created by the bride had to be checked by guests at her wedding, which would then determine if she was qualified to become a housewife.

"This homespun used to be the most important part of a bride's dowry," says Yang Saiping, an experienced weaver.

"The reputation of the bride's family was almost determined by the quantity and quality of the homespun showcased at the wedding," Yang adds.

It was also due to this tradition that an atmosphere of friendly competition was born. According to Yang, girls would learn about weaving from an early age, and mothers would, after seeing what brides had produced for their dowries, teach their daughters how to create even more exquisite patterns.

Yang says weavers often develop a special connection with what they make as they spend lots of time creating a single piece.

"There are about 20 steps involved, from processing cotton into yarn to dyeing to designing and weaving. When you go through all the processes, the time, energy, creativity and emotions you have invested creates a special bond with the fabric," says Yang. "That's the difference between homespun and mass-produced fabrics you buy from stores."

For He, the process of weaving holds special meaning as it is linked to memories of her childhood when she did her schoolwork beside the loom her mother operated.

"Those were special mother-daughter moments. Back then, I'd wear clothes that my mother made. I hardly wore clothes bought from a shop," recalls He.