Tan sheep, a breed unique to Ningxia and known for its tender meat, goji berries and wine are all products for which the region is famous.

"Although running a fusion cuisine restaurant is not as easy in Yinchuan as in Taipei, with the difficulties getting supplies and low public awareness of fusion cuisine, we also have many opportunities. As long as we have good tasting dishes at reasonable prices and good service, we will be able to build a bigger market," Wan said.

The couple also encountered difficulties recruiting staff, who need to be familiar with the dishes and knowledge of what wine goes best with what dish.

But the bitter is accompanied by the sweet.

"I became good friends with one of my customers, the very first to eat at our restaurant. We chatted happily that day, and she came by often after that," Wan said. "To my surprise, she sent me an oil painting when we opened our second restaurant, which was really touching."

It has been five years since Wan moved to Yinchuan. Things have changed, and she now has a child.

"I feel there has been more rainfall since 2018," she said. "The air is less dry and I have grown used to the climate."

The business environment has also changed, as Western restaurants have flourished.

"Now, people wanting to eat at our restaurants need to make a reservation three days ahead, or they may not be able to get a table," she said, smiling.

Wan's family has also been to Ningxia, visiting vineyards and deserts and tasting roast lamb.

"They also liked it here. People here are very welcoming, and the cost of living is relatively low," she said.

With both family and a career in Yinchuan, Wan hopes their restaurants develop into a bigger brand and that they can start a business in Taiwan in the future.