Hungry? Finland is famed for its bread and pastries, so start at Teemu & Markus for exquisite patisserie and entirely moreish rustic breads, Eromanga for meat pies, Kannisto for apple pies and Cafe Esplanad for huge cinnamon buns. There's also a wide selection at the indoor market halls and delis such as Anton& Anton. For chocolate, at which Finns also excel, the onestop shop is Goodio, made in the Kallio district and distinguished by their vibrantly colorful wrappers.

For heartier traditional fare, start with Kappeli, which has served the finest Finnish dishes for more than 140 years. The property is based in the beautiful Esplanadi Park, and boasts a glass veranda and a magnificent house. Or go casual at The Cock, an easygoing brasserie at Kasarmitori Square, where a crispy duck confit with truffle risotto, spinach and mushrooms, or a queen crab toast with horseradish sour cream, shrimps and crusty bread for Saturday lunch should work wonders for the body, mind and wallet.

Music aficionados should check out Helsinki's record scene, as more than ten stores have eclectic collections of vinyl and CDs spanning almost every genre of global music. Fennica Records, with its passionate, knowledgeable staff, is impressive and located just off Hameentie Street, while Black and White is one of the biggest and oldest record stores in Helsinki.