Hairy crabs, from the lake to the plate

One of the best things about autumn in China is hairy crabs. The famous delicacies aren't available all year-round or just anywhere. Diners have only a small window of opportunity each year to enjoy the best of them, and it's not to be missed. Chef Li Dong at the renowned restaurant Jing Yaa Tang has created an a la carte hairy crab menu with some new flavor profiles that will give diners a fresh take on this old favorite - but only until Nov 30.

Try the wok-fried crab meat and roe on roasted youtiao (Chinese fried dough sticks) in which hairy crab is cooked with basil, which imparts a freshness to the aroma and a subtle lift to taste of the broth and crispy ginger.

Another dish featuring the aromatic herb is stir-fried crab meat with milk curd and Parma ham. Chef Li breaks through traditional culinary practices with crispy basil leaves and the rich flavor of Parma ham which is infused with the sweetness of ripe mangos. The sweet and savory combination bursts on the tongue but lingers deliciously on the palate.

One of the most popular dishes on the menu is the hairy crab roe xiao long bao. These hairy crab soupy dumplings combine succulent crab meat with an umami filled broth and they explode with flavor in the mouth. Li has added some carrot and spinach to the skins to add a dash of color for visual appeal.

If you go

Jing Yaa Tang, LG1 The Opposite House, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang district, Beijing. Monday to Friday noon to 2:30 pm, Saturday and Sunday, 11 am to 2:30 pm; and dinner Monday to Sunday 6 pm to 10:30 pm. Tel: 010-6410-5230.