The door is open

The old town invites you to explore－it literally has no gates.

Khari's homestay lies a short walk east from the main entrance, past the shops selling naan bread, copperware and Atlas silk. She is often outside encouraging passers-by to try on Uygur hats.

Born and raised in Kashgar's old town, she knows the place like the back of her hand and said she wants to share her hometown with the rest of the world.

Ten years ago, Khari was a tour guide. When she led tourists around the maze of streets, some were curious about what life was like in those winding alleys.

So she would often take them to her own house, and treated them to real Xinjiang hospitality.

"The charm of the old town lies in the things we, as locals, take for granted－the greenery in the yard, a cup of tea in the sun, the patterns of the carpet, or wooden decorations," she said.

Then an idea popped into her head: Why not offer this authentic experience to visitors?

"Xinjiang people are very hospitable. When there are guests from afar, we always invite them to our homes and treat them to a big meal," Khari said. "We can also invite tourists to our homes so that they get a real experience of the life here."

However, starting a business as a woman, while not without precedent, was not going to be easy. She did not put her plan into action until she was married and had children. When her children had started kindergarten, and renovation work on the old town had almost finished, she felt the time was right to make her dream come true.

"In the past, there was no tap water or plumbing in the houses. Now the standard of living has improved," she said.

With the help of her family, the hostess has created a welcoming environment for her visitors. In the yard, Atlas silk and traditional Uygur floral dresses hang on the walls. Her visitors can drink tea at small tables that overflow with walnuts, almonds, dried grapes, red dates, and other light snacks.

Khari employs dancers and a band to perform while the guests enjoy their tea. She also makes it clear that her visitors can join in the fun, too. Khari is an excellent dancer and has a wicked sense of humor. When she teaches Uygur dance moves, she compares the neck and hand movements to a polite marriage refusal.

"I have a house. I have money. Please marry me," she told one group of tourists, bursting into fits of laughter as she explained the movements for men.

"My father says no. My mother says no. And I also say no," she added, elegantly shaking her head, to show the women's movements.

Another treat for the guests is the homemade Xinjiang food－pilaf, meat skewers, noodles, and samsa, or meat buns. When night falls, people feast, sing and even dance in the street.

"It's as relaxing as visiting a good friend," said Jin Qianwen, from Zhejiang province. "I might not have noticed the color of the window frame or the shape of the pillar if I just walked by. But after drinking tea with the hostess I've learned so many interesting things about the house and the culture here.

"Traveling is much more than taking photos. It's about getting to know the life of a place."