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The passenger ferry where I had a berth pulled out in the evening, moving quickly with the current. Overnight we glided past familiar cities such as Zhaoqing and Sanshui before emerging onto the busy Pearl River waterway that heralded our arrival at Guangzhou, a city that had been my first real home in China. Its rising skyline brought me physically back to the 20th century — although my mind was still cycling around Yangshuo.

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